Photo: JOEL VEAK
by Miles Howard
| January 30, 2012
For some, the words "neighborhood deli" conjure images of
hairy forearms and stacks of gray meat that seemingly date back to the
Spanish-American War. (All it takes is one bad date with a bologna sandwich to
forever alter one's perceptions.) If that sounds like you, take heart: Local
149 owner Jason Owens is ready to upend your expectations with Pinky's
Deli (149 P Street, South Boston, 617.269.0900), a recent addition
to his Southie restaurant.
Named after Owens's deli-frequenting uncle, Pinky's operates
within Local 149's familiar stained-wood interior from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. on
weekdays. This restaurant-within-a-restaurant concept works by means of a
separate lunch menu, offered only during the designated deli hours, that brings
an upscale approach to classic luncheonette fare. Using gourmet local
ingredients, the Pinky's crew builds towering, scale-tipping, meaty sandwiches,
adding flourishes that elevate humble staples into foodie heaven - think
reimaginings like the Wild Bacon BLT ($7), which kicks up the standard sammy
with Mangalitsa bacon, avocado, and banana peppers.
We suggest warming up with a Pot of Pickles ($3), a tangy
showcase of pickled green beans, carrots, cauliflower, and other unorthodox
veggie specimens. (Take note, aspiring anaerobic fermenters: Pinky's will host
a series of pickling classes this March at the Boston Center for Adult
Education.) Once you've adequately stoked your appetite, try a selection from
the sandwich board, like our fave, the Duck Club ($9.25). While petite in
presentation, this indulgent grilled-focaccia monster packs enough house-cured
duck prosciutto, bourbon bacon, and tart cherry BBQ sauce to leave a latter-day
Marlon Brando crying "Mercy!"
This new menu certainly won't hurt the restaurant's rep as an
increasingly bustling neighborhood hangout. But even if you're not local to
Local, Pinky's deserves a visit. You may not have started the month plunging
into the harbor with the L Street Brownies, but we still suggest ending it by
diving into something much more indulgent.