Z Rant

^{Photo: JOEL VEAK}

Confession: on more than one occasion, we here at STUFF have peeled ourselves out of a sweaty throng after last call at a dance night at ZuZu, seen a sign on the door touting its new daily brunch restaurant-within-a-restaurant venture (Z Rant), and legitimately weighed the pros and cons of hiding out in the bathroom for a power nap until the place reopened in the morning. (Pros: saving on cab fare! No need to stumble all the way up our apartment steps! Con: this idea is insane!)

Given that we haven't actually lost our minds (yet, anyway), we decided to wander into Z Rant (474 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, 617.864.3278) on a regular quiet afternoon.

We learned two things from our experience. First, ZuZu is actually a very cozy and intimate spot when the lights are on and there isn't a heaving mass of bodies crammed between you and the bartender. (Who knew?) Second, aside from bartender Johnny Allen's drinks, Z Rant is likely the most delicious thing we've ever experienced on that small stretch of Mass Ave (and, with the Middle East's three shouldering spots, you could say we've kind of been around the block).

For properly brunchy fare, we chowed down on the Go Green! ($9.99), a pretty plate of basil-cashew-pesto-dressed eggs and similarly marinated portabella, nestled close by a whole bunch of homies and topped with a slice of fresh mozzarella and two fried green tomatoes. (Disclaimer: there's not enough space in this column for us to put in the appropriate number of u's in the ensuing yuuum.)

If lunch is more your brunch thing, we invite you to a game of Duck, Duck, Chicken ($12.99), where the rules are as follows: you have to finish your plate, and the winner is the person not crying tears of joy by the end. Expect a warm, toasty baguette, topped with slow-roasted duck, ever-so-slightly sweet chicken liver and fig pâté, warm mushroom ragout, and a drizzle of tangy grapefruit vinaigrette. Still hungry? Add a side of oh-my-goodness-good sweet-potato latkes ($3.49), which come with a cool chive dipping sauce. It's the kind of thing you wish you could have on your plate at every brunch, ever, for the rest of time.

Which, actually, would be possible, if we didn't go anywhere else for brunch ever again. Which would be just fine by us.